The Hanfu culture, which has been passed down for thousands of years in China, is reviving in the lives of modern people. There is a “Hanfu circle” when there are more people wearing them, and the Hanfu worn by many people in the “Hanfu circle” in Yangzhou came from a post-85 girl named Liu Qi. Nowadays, Hanfu production skills have become the fourth batch of intangible cultural heritage projects in Yangzhou.
Liu Qi is a native of Yangzhou, and like many little girls, she has liked sewing and cutting clothes since she was a child. My aunt works in a clothing factory, and when she comes back from get off work, she will teach Liu Qi how to make clothes, using simple fabrics to keep adding new clothes to the doll.
When I was in college, I was in Changsha and I studied art design. There are clubs in the university, and they wear Hanfu for small gatherings. Liu Qi was fascinated by the first sight of Hanfu. The decent style, comfortable fabric, exquisite tailoring, and beautiful embroidery all made Liu Qi fall in love at first sight. What’s even more rare is that after she put on Hanfu, she could feel the traditional aesthetics of Chinese culture brought by this costume. Every detail of the design contains the Chinese people’s integration of aesthetics and life. An experience that modern clothing cannot bring. When she was in Changsha, she often visited the Mawangdui Han Tomb. Every piece of costumes from the Han Dynasty was so exquisite, which deeply moved Liu Qi’s heart.
After graduating from university and returning to Yangzhou, Liu Qi began to pursue other professions, but her love for Hanfu made her feel that only the production of Hanfu is what she really likes. So, she went to Shanghai again to study clothing design. After she finished her studies, she opened the first Hanfu shop in Yangzhou, mainly focusing on Hanfu, but also taking care of cheongsam and other clothing.
There are many processes for making Hanfu, and there are many stitching methods.
Liu Qi said that to make a Hanfu, there are many processes, including at least plate making, cutting, stitching, stitching, stitching, ironing, hemming, trimming, piping, overlocking, basting, basting, budding, upper collar, etc. . Among them, there are many stitching methods, such as flat stitches for flanging and shirring, dark stitches are mostly used for the collar and trimming of the stand-up collar jacket; there are also some special processes, such as “germinating”, which is used for inlay The collar has a three-dimensional effect; while “trapezoid pleats” are used to make horse skirts so that they do not fold.
A piece of Hanfu can actually contain many “intangible cultural heritage” techniques, such as brocade, silk, embroidery, etc. Of course, Hanfu itself is an intangible cultural heritage, and such an all-encompassing project is rare. Moreover, Hanfu itself can be “seamlessly docked” with other intangible cultural heritages, such as the edulis and velvet flowers in Yangzhou. If modern people wear a velvet or velvet on their heads, it will inevitably look strange. But if it is paired with a Hanfu, it becomes the most beautiful embellishment. Similarly, if you wear a suit to play the guqin and guzheng, you will also have a feeling of “not matching”. If you are wearing a Hanfu, it is a sense of interlinked spirit.
At the same time, making and studying Hanfu is actually an in-depth understanding of the history of Chinese etiquette and civilization. Hanfu has a long time span. From Xia Zhou to Ming and Qing Dynasties, during the long historical process, the shape and system of Hanfu are also constantly changing. This is related to the etiquette rules and aesthetic orientation of each dynasty. This also makes Liu Qile happy. among them.
“No matter how you change it, the most basic style of Hanfu has a rule, that is, the collar and the right gusset. Only this kind of Hanfu is the purest.” Liu Qi said.
Young people are more and more accepting, deriving Han element costumes
At the beginning, Liu Qi’s elaborate Hanfu sold no more than ten pieces per year. Most of the customers were college students, with limited spending power, and they all bought a few hundred yuan. Fortunately, Liu Qi’s family supported her very much, so she also stood by. Nowadays, Hanfu is accepted by more and more people, and more people find her to buy or customize Hanfu.
Among the customers, most of them are young people, which makes Liu Qi more gratified, because more young people like it, which also proves that this intangible cultural heritage is full of vitality. There are also young mothers who may still feel embarrassed to wear them, but love to customize Hanfu for their children. When they are worn, they can also feel the beauty of Chinese traditional costume culture. On some traditional holidays, Liu Qi will also organize some gatherings and garden tours, and the entire garden is filled with Han costumes flying, as if traveling through the prosperous years of the Tang and Song Dynasties.
Liu Qi said that the Hanfu with a large robe and sleeves is actually quite convenient. Of course, she also made some derivative products based on the needs of customers, that is, clothing with Han elements, which is not as traditional as Hanfu, but in some parts of the clothes, it has the unique beauty of Hanfu. This kind of neutralization makes Han element costumes more suitable for modern life.
“Hanfu was originally a part of Chinese civilization. At first it was interest, but now it is love, and it will continue to last in the future,” Liu Qi said.